Thursday 9 May 2024

Day 77 - Huanuco to Huaraz

"Mixed Roads" they said. Indeed, with some super-highways and lots of turns, but mostly gravel, water and mud. My bike looks a shocker, being covered in mud and horse shit plus dead bugs and god knows what else.

The distance for today was predicated on some good roads, as the Peruvian government is building a super-highway from Huanaco to Huaraz, based on the need for an inland highway to offset the actual super highway on the coast from Lima to the border with Ecuador. However the terrain is incredibly steep and rugged and every day we can see great folds of geological time in the rocks on every hill.

The expressway being built is 12 metres wide, which would be plenty for large road trains and other cars. Right now, there are sections of about 2 kilometres supplemented by longer sections of very narrow mud and rocks. To make matters more demading there have been many land slides onto the new sections and some are now down to one lane. They also have an interesting habit of not installing culverts of any size, but building a cement dip or drain across which water flows and creates a very slippery surface for all to pass over. 

On one part, I had accidentally passed the agreed stopping point, a very small village (where a cup of coffee would have been very welcome) in an attempt to make it across a steel covered Bailey-type bridge of just one lane, used by everyone including shanks pony and the local women heading cows, sheep and sometimes pigs. It was very bucolic, but took my full attention. 

As I headed up the hill there was one longer section of black mud, which was especially exciting on my motorcycle, it being shod with good tyres but they were very much road orientated in pattern. I made it through with a bunch of local road workers cheering me on! The mountain people are so friendly.

We tend to overtake each other as one or another ride stops to take a photo or a pee, and so I found myself in front. At this point I stopped to take pictures of a water fall and JC stopped also, and asked if he could take my Go-Pro video camera on his bike and take some video of me. He did this and got some very good shots for my daily 1-2 minute video, which I upload to YouTube. 

As it happened the trip into Huaraz was easy compared to most town entries and I was at the hotel above the city quite easily and quickly. This hotel was very neat and is actually run by a Swiss German gentleman who spoke perfect English (and Spanish, French and German!). It is sparking clean and well organised and the rooms have nice views to the mountains. Also there is a garage on-site which is not normally the case, but it enabled me to clean my bike mirrors, screens and lights easily and to unload and load-up. 

It was here that Jeff had his accident outside the hotel, which was to result in him being driven to Lima and leaving the tour. He was an interesting character and I am going to miss him despite his foibles. 

Sheryle and I had an excellent meal at the hotel too, including a half-bottle of wine and some prawn dishes. The Team Dinner was put off due to Jeff's accident and hopefully that will occur on the following evening.







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